Destination of the Week

Spain's La Rioja

Wine regions tend to be rich in history and Rioja definitely is no exception. Located in north-central Spain, the spectacular views along the Ebro River is often reminiscent of much earlier times – as early as 200 B.C. when the Roman army occupied the area.  The area actually is where Celts, Franks, Goths, Saxons, Jews, Iberians, Romans, and Arabs crossed in their travels.

Celts, Arabs, and Christians then took their turns in the region until, in the 12th century a dispute was settled by Henry I of England and the Castilians were given control.  Around then, the name La Rioja surfaced – many say as a contraction of Rio Oja – The Oja River.

Mixed in with winding roads, stone buildings and ancient villages, are contemporary wineries with edifices from the architectural minds of Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid, and Santiago Calatrava.

Take in the vistas that reflect a merger of past and present then get ready for fun.  You’re going to find out what hospitality can be, starting with  the local outgoing nature of the Riojans, their activities, and their love of food and wine.  When you get to Calle Laurel in Logroño you’ll get a real taste… the tapas bars, the music, the wine, of course, and people, relaxed, people.

Become a part of it!  Plan on sampling dishes – especially lamb or game – and accompanying wines from a number of the bars.  Sing along with the music; if you don’t know the words, fake it – even in English.  You’ll be as welcomed there as anywhere in the world. 

Note that just about any wine you taste will be a rioja.  These are primarily from the tempranillo grape.  Because of the terroir – tierra – tempranillo thrives here, blossoming into a large fruit profile.  True, garnacha, mazuelo and graciano make their way into blends here but it’s the tempranillo that scores with your nose and taste buds.

After sampling the wines in Logroño, you may want to head south west to Ezcaray.  There’s a great Michelin-rated restaurant called El Portal de Echaurren.  From there, go north and get on the Camino de Santiago to make your way across the three sub-regions that lay along this road.  You’ll be making your way from Rioja Alta east to Riojo Alavesa.  Before heading east, go a short distance west to Haro.  It’s a fairly large city (by regional standards) with lots of activity and numerous wineries dotting the area.  Actually, “dotting” isn’t the right term.  You’ll be amazed at all the land that is devoted to vines. 

East of Haro is Elciego and the home of Marqués de Riscal winery.  Frank Gehry designed the establishment.  He also designed the Guggenheim Museum, another must see.

By the way, you can drive, of course, but you may want to look into a bike tour.  There are several and this is a terrific area for biking – even just part of the way.  (Sorry, no “downhill only” deals available).  You’ll be able to visit Balcón de la Rioja and take in the view from there.  Then, in Rioja Alavesa, you’ll go north to the capital, Laguardia, a walled medieval city with only five entrances.  Laguardia has the expected narrow streets that wind through the town.  Be sure to see the Santa Maria de los Reyes church with its polychromatic portico and the church of San Juan.  Also visit the underground wine cellars, including “El Fabulista” where you can have a complete wine and food experience.

Continuing east, Rioja Baja lies to the south of the Ebro river.  While the entire area is smaller than the state of Delaware, the regions are very different.  Rioja Baja is much more Mediterranean – hotter and drier – than either Rioja Alta or Rioja Alavesa.  Calahorra is the capital.  A lot of photo opportunities will present themselves given the antiquities and views.  Back in the western part of the province, Ezcaray, full of fun, especially on the weekends.  If you’re a skier, you’re close to Valdezcaray in the Sierra de la Demanda so you can get the best of two worlds in the same trip…just book yourself enough time! 

If you’re into it, sign up for a photography tour.  Between the countryside and the people, you’ll fill more than a few rolls or memory discs.  Another great opportunity is a cooking getaway.  La Rioja has plenty of opportunities, especially through the spring and summer. 

How to get there:  International flights are into Bilbao (worth a couple of days, too).  From there, either train, bus or car will get you there very inexpensively.  You may want a car but there are drivers available.  The buses, too, can be used to travel among the regions.

La Rioja is a unique combination of beauties and often overlooked as a destination.  If you’re the least bit fond of wine or food – or of biking or skiing or hiking or golf – give this area a good look…and go!

Check out more on travel to Spain here.

Got a destination in mind? Start planning your trip here.