Destination of the Week

Campania

Here’s a challenge for you:  find an area of the world with beauty that includes islands and beaches then adds shear cliffs with dug-in homes – and hotels – and then, throws in mountains and even a volcano for good measure.  Also make sure that the place you find has absolutely delicious food and wine and some of the greatest, friendliest people on earth.  Now – see if that doesn’t bring you right to Campania in Italy

Many travelers start their Campania visit in Naples – not because it’s the birthplace of pizza, which it is – but it’s the most easily accessed by air, land or water.  If you come by boat, you’ll be sailing in the Tyrrhenian Sea with views of the beautiful and varying coastline.  You’ll see both flowing, sandy beachfronts and stark cliffs…with Mt. Vesuvius looming in the east.  In front of the Gulf of Naples to the south, there’s the famed Isle of Capri, with the islands of Ischia and Procida farther north. 

Regardless of how you arrive, it’s beauty in every direction!  What’s amazing is that the beauty is a wonderful meld of anthropological and geological history.  We’re not trying to get heavy, just recognizing that the area is a product of multiple “changes in ownership” and rule and, as importantly it’s all been heavily influenced – actively – by the land.  A visit to Pompeii will get rid of any doubt about that.

On the “people” side, recorded history goes back to the Etruscans about 6th century BC.  In fact, even before that, there’s some record from the Opici and Aurunci which inhabited the area around 1000 BC.  It was the Samnite wars that brought the area into the Holy Roman Empire.  It’s interesting to note that there’s information from the period that tells us that the Romans were producing wine in the area at that time.

Unfortunately, it was almost all for naught because the geological history got in the way.  It was in 79 AD when Mt. Vesuvius decided to weigh in with a vote for political change, drowning Pompeii and Herculaneum in ash.  The land’s recovery – which took centuries – allowed for multiple changes of rule.  Enter Alfonso V of Aragon in the 1400’s.  He brought the region back together but it didn’t last past his death.  In the mid-1800’s, Sicily became the power seat.  Garibaldi’s invasion brought the province, and Sicily, back into the fold called “Italy”. 

If you’re guessing that, because of the constant change of rule, the population was poor and oppressed, you’re right on the money.  It wasn’t ‘til much later that travel brought visitors to the region.  That business alone has turned the area into a thriving and, to a degree, crowded region. 

There is so much to see and do.  We should probably start with Vesuvius.  After all, it’s probably had more “input” to the region than any single human.  Climbing it isn’t a tough walk.  Most of the pathway up to the top of the 4000 foot elevation is a relatively slight inclination.  Wear great walking shoes, anyway!  When you reach the top, if you so wish, you can buy a ticket that lets you travel down into the caldera.  That trip’s a little more rugged but worth it for the bragging rights.

Back in Naples, there’s plenty to do.  Museum-hopping will keep you busy with the Museo Nazionale della Ceramica, Museo e Galleria di Capodimonte, and the National Archaeological Museum standing out.

Churches of note include San Giacomo deigli Spanoli, Santa Chiara and the chapel of San Saero topping the list.

There’s so much more to do in Naples, though.  Yes, that slice of pizza, but you’ll find that most of the wines produced in Campania make their way to restaurants in Naples, along with Positano and Amalfi.  For a long time, Campanian wines were given short shrift but there’s been a real turnaround.  Of course, there’re the wines of Vesuvio, most called Lacryma Cristi but go beyond those and discover Falerno and Campi Flegrei.  The latter promises grapes from vines that are primarily ungrafted – being free of phylloxera – while Falerno wines made from Aglianico and Piedirosso grapes are exceptionally tasty.  On the white side, Fiano D’Avellino offers dry whites that are soft while Greco di Tufo whites are dry yet somewhat fruity.

Now…after you’ve tasted the wines, get going to each of the locations.  Pompeii is a required stop from a historical standpoint.  The stories you’ve heard about time literally frozen by ash and magma are true.  The area has been commercialized, to be sure, but it’s no less impressive – just a little more hectic.  Entering through the Marina Gates, you begin to understand the power of the earth and Vesuvius and the tremendous damage that occurred.  At the same time, the slice in history’s timeline that Pompeii provides is like no other archaeological resource in the world, especially given the fact that it lay covered from 79AD until the 1700’s when a farmer digging a well discovered it.

Going south from Pompeii along the coast you’ll go through Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello.  Stop at ‘em all!

In Sorrento, you will see the Museo Correale di Terranova, left by the Famiglia Correale along with an endowment and instructions that it remain a public museum.  There’s plenty of shopping on Via San Cesareo and when you get hungry…well it’d be hard to find a better place given dishes like lobster ravioli, gnocchi con basil e fiordilatte and, of course, Neapolitan pizza.  Sorrento even has 3 subcategories of wine appellations.

Down the road is the beautiful resort town of Positano.  Positano is striking, heaving out of the water in sheared cliffs.  Part of the beauty is the drop to the sea along with the brightly painted homes that are built on top of – and sometimes into – the cliffs.  The drop to the water will expose the volcanic sand that makes up the beaches.

Points of interest include the protective towers built in the 16th century and archaeological treasures like 16th century ruins.

On the drive to Amalfi, take a look out the right side of the car (only if you’re not driving…the winding road has few guard rails and it drops right into the water).  The nets stretched among the trees are to catch lemons falling from the trees.  This gorgeous fruit is a major export for the region and, in fact, it is special.  Has been since the 1st century.  Beyond limoncello, the traditional liqueur of the region, both the juice and zest are used for lemon flavoring in just about everything.  And they’re very high in vitamin C.

Driving’s a challenge here.  The roads are narrow and the local folks sometimes, well, let’s say, if you’re expecting a turn signal, forget it.  Parking is a challenge, too.  At some point, you may see your hotel manager playing musical cars – with your auto – just to let traffic through.  After you’re settled in, make your way to the top, order some of the local seafood (served with lemon, of course) and a carafe of the local favorite.  Then sit back and enjoy the view all the way down to the water.  If you’re looking for white wine, don’t worry – almost 60 percent of wine from the region is white. The next day, visit Sant’Andrea Church and the Duomo therein.  These structures go back to the 9th century – 1066 – though there was significant renovation in 1203 and in 1861.

Last great stop along the coast is Ravello.  Don’t miss the Villa Rufolo.  On the right side of the square (where the cathedral is) you’ll see the quadrangular There’s a tower on the square that will lead you to Villa Rufolo, constructed and left by the famiglia Rufolo.  Now the Antiquarium it houses archaeological artifacts and is worth a visit.  If you’re going in July, you’ll get to experience a terrific Richard Wagner music festival.  As another mountain-top town, there are, once again, spectacular views in all directions including 1000 feet down to the sea.  Ravello has been a magnet for celebrities.  Sir Winston Churchill, Greta Garbo, and Virginia Woolf all found a way to spend time at the Villa Cimbrone there.

Before you leave, head north to Caserta and go through the Royal Palace, a Vanvitelli creation, the  Palazzo Vecchio, originally constructed in the 14th century, and the cathedral from the 1700’s.  You may recognize some of the views of the Royal Palace from scenes in Star Wars and Mission Impossible (III).

All along you’ll find each stop for food and taste of wine outdoing the last and friendly people who will go out of their way to help you enjoy your visit.  If you can, plan on spending a day and night or two in each town.  It’ll give you great memories along with the wonderful tastes you’ll experience.